Friday, December 21, 2007

Fashion News: Dolce & Gabbana Knocks Off Marimekko


Marimekko ® "Unikko" (Poppy)

I have something very unpleasant to report. Undoubtedly it will land me in hot water with both Dolce & Gabbana and with Bergdorf's, but I can't be quiet. I feel my job as a journalist* is to report, so that's what I'm doing, consequences be damned.

I was at Bergdorf Goodman the other day, and I did a double-take when I saw these:


$385 D&G Dolce & Gabbana
Poppy-print Bustier


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Poppy-print Dress

At first, I thought, "Wow, D & G have used a Marimekko fabric for one of their designs, how cool!" When I went closer, I saw that it wasn't Marimekko fabric at all — if you look, the poppy petals are perforated in the Marimekko design and the flowers have stems, the D & G fabric has neither. I was so shocked I didn't know what to think!

Let me give you some background: Marimekko is a highly-respected textile and home décor company from Finland, with over 50 years of history. Although the average American might not be familiar with the company and its very distinctive designs, it is well-known and regarded in both the clothing and the design fields. First lady Jackie Kennedy bought eight Marimekko dresses in 1960 and put the brand instantly on the map when she wore a Marimekko dress on the cover of Sports Illustrated in December 1960 with President Kennedy. Today Marimekko has concept stores in Boston, New York, Miami, and the Washington D.C. area; Marimekko is also sold through Crate & Barrel, Anthropologie, as well as boutiques and specialty stores.

The "Unikko" (Poppy) design and family of fabrics, clothing, and other products, was first introduced in 1964 — 43 years ago. Some of you may remember it from the wall panels of last year's "HGTV Design Star", and if I'm not mistaken, "Top Chef" as well. The pattern is distinctive and recognizable.

This isn't the first time it's been knocked off (I saw a knock-off fabric in a discount fabric store a few years ago), but who would have thought that an industry leader such as Dolce and Gabbana would stoop to what in my mind adds up to nothing less than piracy. What bad form! For shame!

I contacted Marimekko yesterday, sending along the link to the item, asking if perhaps this was a new version of "Unikko" that Dolce & Gabbana had licensed. That sort of thing happens all the time — one design company licensing their fabric to be used by another. I thought it may have been possible; after all, I was just about to write about the upcoming Marimekko collaboration with H & M, which will bring Marimekko to the common consumer (news over which I was part delighted, part disappointed). Furthermore, Marimekko is partnering with Manolo Blahnik for Summer 2008 — the "Unikko" pattern will grace Manolos all next summer. (See them at thecoolhunter.net)

Marimekko confirmed to me today by email that the fabric used was not an authentic Marimekko fabric or design pattern.

What next? I don't know. I hope they sue. What I do know is that D & G Dolce and Gabbana just went on my black list. It is bad enough when high street stores and bargain outfits start knocking off high design, for a respected industry brand to rip off another is unconscionable.

Feel free to copy, post, and distribute this post to your hearts' content. I'm thinking of forwarding it to both Bergdorf's and D & G Dolce & Gabbana.**  I'm so revolted I'm spitting nails.


Further reading:

For Marimekko at H & M, see The Wall Street Journal, 20 Nov 2007.

For more information about Marimekko, see Marimekko website.



* We'll save the discussion of whether bloggers are "allowed" to call themselves "journalists" for another time.

** I have sent a request for comment to D & G.



[[Update, 21 Dec 2007 14:45 EST:
My email to Dolce & Gabbana, sent through their website "Contact" page came back as undelivered.

What's more interesting is that Dolce & Gabbana themselves are enacting measures to stop people from copying THEIR designs.

http://eng.dolcegabbana.it/corporatedef.asp?xml=AntiImitation states:

"Starting out from the 1997-1998 Autumn/Winter season Dolce & Gabbana S.p.A. decided to introduce an anti-imitation system made up of both visible and invisible elements. The aim of this system is to protect the articles of some of the lines which are to a greater degree the object of numerous attempts at imitations on the part of counterfeiters and, on the part of Dolce & Gabbana S.p.A., to safeguard its clientele."

Quite hypocritical, n'est-ce pas?

Their offices in New York, when I tried to call just now, were understandably closed for the Holidays. I will attempt to reach someone for comment in January 1. ]]

[[Update, 22 Dec 2007 9:55 EST:
Well, it appears that I wasn't the first to bring this to Marimekko's attention. Just-Style.com reported on 27 Nov 2007 on this and Marimekko is looking into it. And here I was expecting to be notified by the Pulitzer prize people any minute that I was on the shortlist :P Well, I think I'll leave this to the big boys to duke out on their own. Still disgusted with D & G.]]


Photo sources: 1. Marimekko website. 2. D & G at Bergdorf Goodman. Images used for illustrative purposes only. No copyright infringement intended. If you object to the use of your image, please email and I will remove immediately.

158 comments:

constant_drama said...

You go girl! Stand up for what you believe in.

WendyB said...

Wow! Good work. I'm excited that they responded to you!

Shoeaddict said...

Well, I think you are a great hero for doing this! I'm dying to see what D&G have to say.

Elle said...

I agree - that's totally hypocritical and unacceptable. I really admire you for taking the risk to report on this!

Me said...

::applause::

It's very observant. A lot of the fashion houses are hypocrites making huge margins on cheaply made products. More and more of them are making products in China or are employing Chinese immigrants at next to nothing to make their products in Italy or France. Meanwhile, they tell the public that their products are made by artisans only in their country which is not only a lie but quite xenophobic.

Valley Girl said...

Sacrebleu!

Anonymous said...

This is soo sad...as a digital scrapbook designer we go through this sort of thing all the time! It's really discouraging to as an artist/designer. We call this sort of thing 'piracy'.

Blue Floppy Hat said...

Oh my goodness....I don't think Dolce and Gabbana will have a leg to stand on if this ever comes to the (wider) public attention. It so patently looks like a copy, and would probably be seen as one by a court too (and I speak as a student of intellectual property law). You've done as much as could be expected by way of research, so it's a fairly obvious conclusion.
And PS: don't worry about D&G- if they do try to bully you, the bloggers have your back.

Libertygirl said...

Sweetpea, I have emailed you all the Milanese contacts for Dolce - PR Director's email, phone numbers etc etc. YOU GO GIRL!!

Bious LLG xx

indie said...

This was largely discussed in Finnish Media and Blogs some months ago, and Marimekko has sent somekind of request to D&G asking about this, so don't worry, things are being done. Marimekko has a lisence of somekind that protects the Poppy design in Europe and US. This isn't the first time it has been copied, but now with the huge collaborations coming up, it might be the most attention-getting.

G.G. said...

Thanks Indie -- after your comment I scoured the web and found an article on Just-Style.com from 27 November that confirmed Marimekko is investigating. I'm surprised they didn't tell me that in their email -- may be a legality thing. So I think I'll let them do their thing and get out of the way :)

WendyB said...

LOL @ the Pulitzer comment. My husband was actually on the awards committee for quite a few years ;-)
So that cracked me up.

Anonymous said...

For another Dolce & Gabbana disgrace, read the book "Gomorrah, Italy's other mafia" by Roberto Saviano.

The author claims that Angelica Jolie's Oscar dress by D&G was made in a sweatshop in Southern Italy, by a person who never was appropriately compensated for his work, and was never told the dress would go for AJ and for Oscars.

(D&G is not named in the book, but it is fairly easy to figure out from the description of the dress, which one of the AJ's Oscar dresses the author is referring to.)

It seems most of the Italian luxury fashion houses exploit workers in mafia controlled sweatshops and shanty towns in Southern Italy.

Mind blowing stuff. Couldn't sleep for few days after reading the book.

I would put my money on Fair Trade Fashion, if there was one. (Marimekko, perhaps?)

No Italian fashion for me, please...

Anonymous said...

Some new information on the dispute to be found through link below:

"MARIMEKKO INFORMS OF DISAGREEMENTS CONCERNING UNIKKO TRADEMARK "
http://www.dgap.de/dgap/static/News?newsType=&newsID=243210

And thanks for good investigative blogging!

Anonymous said...

I thought that stealing unikko/poppy was the ugliest thing that a design powerhouse like D&G can do.

Unfortunately I found something even more arrogant and repulsing act by D&G.

Now they are trying to cancel the regisration of Marimekko's poppy pattern in EU.

http://www.yle.fi/news/left/id95259.html

Can you imagine!! First they steal the pattern and then they try cancel marimekko's rights of this over 40 years old world famous iconic print pattern.

If you find this as repulsive as I do, please tell it to D&G via their web pages.

http://eng.dolcegabbana.it/corporate.asp?page=CommentsEnquiry

R said...

Good work. D&G are right now repugnant. I too will speak my mind at their contact page. Thanks for bringing this matter to our attention. I love Finland and have the greatest admiration for Marimekko. And needless to say DG are off my list permanently. Thanks again.

Anonymous said...

In Finnish media was news item that D&G are paying off Marimekko. Marimekko doesn't tell figures but I would asume it is not that small amount.

Sasha said...

Just stumbled on this. Don't know much about copyright and I hate to be the only one but - so what?
Have you ever seen a poppy? D&G's design actually looks MORE like an actual poppy than Marimekko's: the black stamen circle is larger and round rather than oblong, the petals are rounder and don't have two humps...I mean, if I was going to make a poppy-patterned dress that's exactly what it would like.
So - no one is allowed to make a poppy-based pattern because Marimekko did it once? That's a little silly dontcha think? I could see if it used the same combination of colors but - poppies are red and so are the ones in the dress.
I think D&G was right in asking them to release their trademark. It's ridiculous.

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Next is victorias secret to copy marimekko !

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Jensqu said...

OMG, Dolce and Gabbana?! O.O Marimekko's "Unikko" (poopy) is my favourite, and my favourite bagshop D&C copy it?! I am from Finland, and I love Marimekko be cas it's from Finland. And it's so.. I like it.
D&C, What is going on?!

Anonymous said...

I'm shocked!
First Marimekko uses "Unikko" for 40 years in their design, and then D&G goes and copies it! Apparently they don't have any repect for other Brands, and that makes me furious.
I could maby understand it if "Unikko" would be a new pattern, but it has been in use for over 40 years in different collections!
Doesn't this prove the lack of imagination that D&G has?
I have several Marimekko items, alsow one "Unikko"-bag.

thisisforyou said...

as a textile designer i can tell you as long as you change the design 30% you are covered in a law suit. this may not seem right or fair, but all art is inspired by something else. i cannot say for sure if the design was changed enough but just updating on what i know

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