Wednesday, July 4, 2007

How To Do Marilyn Monroe Makeup: Step by Step Tips

©2007 The Glam Guide. Reproduction only with express written permission.
All Marilyn images from the writer's own collection.

Marilyn Monroe's makeup has been the paragon of Glamour Girl makeup since the 1950s. While Marilyn already had a good grasp of cosmetics and glamour in her "Norma Jean" days, her look was polished by the studios, most of all through the genius of her personal makeup artist, Allan "Whitey" Snyder. He was her makeup artist throughout her career: from her first screen test at Twentieth Century Fox in 1946 to her funereal makeup in 1962.

Marilyn Makeup Step by Step:

1. Moisturize. Marilyn's skin nearly always looked flawless. Use a makeup base primer to smooth out flaws and to keep makeup looking fresh. Recommended: M·A·C Prep + Prime (SPF 50).

2. Apply a makeup base in the lightest tone suitable for your skin. Use a "film finish" makeup such as M·A·C Studio Tech or Max Factor Pan Stick Ultra-Creamy.

3. Concealer. On imperfections, dark undereyes, etc. Use a cake cover-up such as Dermablend Cover Creme as close to the color of your makeup base as possible.

4. Translucent powder. Light dusting of powder to set makeup base and concealer. Loose powder preferable.
Recommended: Boots No7 Perfect Light Loose Powder in Translucent.

5. Eyebrows. Use a light brown eyebrow pencil, making small feathered strokes. Blend in with eyebrow brush. Continue line to elongate brow.
Recommended: Bourjois Paris' Sourcil Précision, Blond foncé.

6. False Eyelashes. These are available at every drugstore. If you're unused to these, practice with the $2 pairs. Marilyn always used strips, never individual lashes.

7. Eyeliner 1. Whitey Snyder always lined the inside of Marilyn's eye with a white kohl pencil — this is a trick still used by movie and stage makeup artists to make the eye appear larger and more open. Continue the line of white from the corner of the eye for about ¼inch (½cm), angling mildly upwards.
Recommended: Philosophy Big Gorgeous Eyes

8. Eyeliner 2. Contrary to popular belief, Marilyn's eyeliner was rarely black. Most often, it was brown or dark brown. You can do this with liquid or pencil, but a cake with brush (made wet) is the best option. Do a very narrow line right at lashline top and bottom, and continue out, as seen above. The two lines must not meet, so your white line doesn't disappear and your eyes look smaller.
Recommended: Make Up For Ever Paris, Professional. Eyeliner Cake, Brown #4.

9. Eyeliner 3. Above the thin line of brown on the upper lid, Marilyn always had an even thinner line of gold liner. Make sure to make the thinnest of lines or it will look obvious and tacky, instead of glamorous.
Recommended: Urban Decay Liquid Eye Liner. Chains.

10. Red Dot. With either a lip pencil or a lipstick brush (bright red), the smallest red dot is placed in the inside corner of the eye to make the eye look brighter.

11. Eyeshadow. Marilyn's eyeshadow was very subtle. Whitey Snyder applied some light brown shadow to the crease of Marilyn's eyelid, and to the outer area below brow (1 & 2). He then added a shiny off-white to the center of the lid, brow bone, above the brow, and in the corner of the eye (3,4,5,6,7). I've exaggerated the contrasts in the picture to show you more clearly.
Recommended: Hard Candy Eye Shadow Quartet - Old Skool.

TIP: Before applying eyeshadow, dust a generous amount of translucent powder under the eye — that way if any shadow falls under the eye during application, you can easily brush it off.

12. Contouring. To accentuate cheekbones, jawline, and make nose seem more narrow, Whitey Snyder would apply a contouring color with a blush brush below Marilyn's cheekbones, on her temples, and around and under her jawline. This can easily be done with a good bronzer.
Recommended: Chanel Irréelle Soleil Silky Bronzing Powder.

13. Highlighting. Apply a shimmer highlight on top of the cheekbone in a line all the way to the corner of the eye, on top of the chin, on the t-zone, and on the forehead.

Recommended: Makeup For Ever Star Powder. Pearl Gold 902.

14. Lips. Technicolor cameras had a tendency to turn all reds orangey, so on film, in order to get a "true red", Whitey Snyder had to use a mixture of several bluish reds. In her personal appearances and private life too, Marilyn's lipstick was a mixture of two or more shades. First, Whitey Snyder would line above Marilyn's top lip with a white pen (you can use the same as for eyes, provided you sharpen in between to prevent bacteria) — this makes the top lip appear fuller. Then, he would smudge it a bit to blend in and powder it, so the line wouldn't be obvious. Then, the lips were lined with a red pencil (notice, how the top lip is lined to come over the bottom lip. The outer edges were brushed with a darker red, the center of the mouth with a lighter red, to make lips look more voluptuous. Gloss was applied, with a thicker dollop in the center of the bottom lip. For film and photo shoots they'd use Vaseline (a trick still sometimes used in glamour photography). Finally, a bit of the same shine used for highlight was applied on the "cupid's bow".

15. Powder. A final dusting of translucent powder to set all the makeup.

16. Mascara. A coat or two of black mascara was added to the lashes (both real and false). In that era, mascara was a cake mascara — mascara has since advanced greatly and we have great ones to choose from.
Recommended: Diorshow Mascara.

End result:

Related Posts:
Old Hollywood Glamour: Forever Marilyn Dresses
Past Glam: Marilyn Monroe in a 1953 Magazine Ad for Tru-Glo Makeup
How To Do Old Hollywood Glamour Hair: Step-by-Step Tips

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Diana Coronado said...

Me, the first post !!, I think i'll print it.
Tips like those r really important for us !!

Luv Marilyn !!

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you forgot to mention "add a whisper of chanel no# 5" !

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I suppose you got me there, Kittens, if we classify perfume under makeup :)

Anastasia said...

Great tips!

I'm in to win the book :)

Anonymous said...

Finalement, je pourrai ressembler à Marilyn

Anonymous said...

Does anyone notice that nothing is said about blush....
Maybe they just did the contouring thing with the bronzer and didn't use blush...
I've never heard of the red dot thing... Thats very interesting!

Caldina said...

Thanks this is great im gonna use it to do my make-up tomorrow on halloween! But youforgot about her beauty mark...

x-shev-x said...

Thankyooo soooo much! This is really detailed and helpful - Im going as Marilyn to my ow birthdy party where th theme is film stars. Thanks!!! :) x

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justsomegirl said...

I just did the eye makeup, and for the first time I think in maybe my whole life, my eyeliner looks great! The trick of using the dark on the upper and lower, and then white kohl on the lower inside lid, and the gold just above the top eyeliner - somehow it did the trick of making my eyes pop without looking weird and dark. I absolutely love it and when I went out this evening my friends all said, wow, you look really good tonight!

Marilyn's style is classic and timeless!

Ken Garson said...

Actually she did her own make up, she had certan liquidy thing that she apllied to give her lips a 'surgery' noone knew bout her make up secrets not even her make up artist :) she thought that they wouldnt be secets if she shared them

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Anonymous said...

ooh a beauty guru on youtube recently copied every single trick you mentioned here and everyone is now praising her for it when it was you who found it out first!

Philip said...

Ken, I hate to differ with you but it was the other way around.Whitey did the makeup and didnt tell Marilyn all HIS secrets. Very few stars then or now do thier own makeup for films or personal appearances...
Also,The blush was a peachy coral tone, lightly dusted on the apples of the cheeks. Bulsh in the 50's was very subtle, the focus was on eyes and lips. Many of the great reds from the 30s 40s and 50s had that red dye that caused cancer and was banned, so we dont have the great true red anymore. Elizabeth Ardens Victory Red was really big, esp in the 30s and 40s. I have read one of the reds she used was called diabolique from guerlain, which is no longer made.
Ben Nye's Marilyn Red is a great substitute, or Revlons Fire and Ice or Certainly Red (both remain from the 1930s) are good, though fire and ice can go orange on some lips...

Anonymous said...

This tutorial was extremely helpful. Not quite what I expected being that most tutorials are based on the obvious and popular belief! (black liquid liner and lips)

Anonymous said...

Kandee Johnson on Youtube made a video pretty much copying everything you said here in this article. Where did you get your information? Could she have gotten hers from the same place or did she rip you off?

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well i guess what so ever you do you can't beat Marilyn Monroe. She looks so gorgeous as of her natural features like eyes and lips. Well with some more emphasis on eye and lip makeup one can get her looks but truly she was something to look on.

Anonymous said...

Love it! So helpful, some of these tips I'll use as a daily basis make up. One thing YOU FORGOT ABOUT HER MOST FAMOUS BEAUTY MARK!

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Well with some more emphasis on eye and lip makeup one can get her looks but truly she was something to look on.

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The trick of using the dark on the upper and lower,

Anonymous said...

Her beauty mark was her own mole. It was sometimes accented with the same tone pencil. I leaned allot here. A number of years Before Marilyn died she gave Whitney a gold money clip that was to be his compensation to do her makeup for her funeral. Inscribed was "While I am still warm".

Anonymous said...

All the tips seem pretty ez to dup w/some prctce, but one of the facial features that are so beautiful and can't be copied are her beautiful eyebrows, even by impersonators. They are arched and groomed perfectly.

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I wish I had seen this article BEFORE my videotaped audition for the 50th Anniversary of Marilyn's death!!! (Whichever "Marilyn" gets the most "Likes" on YouTube gets a chance to PLAY her in a new movie!!!) (in case you guys wanna see some Marilyn impersonators, they're all entertaining!)

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I often have men tell me they think I look like Marilyn. I'm going to try the make-up and see if I cam ramp that up a bit!

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Anonymous said...

Kandee Johnson likely stole her info! This was posted in 2007 and Kandee Johnson did not post hers until 2010. I find it just disrespectful not to give credit...unless they used the same info, but having done a search, I can't seem to find any Marilyn makeup similar to this post prior to 2007. Anyhow, just a great post! Thank you!

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I've searched far and wide for a good tutorial on Marilyn Monroe's makeup and all I could find is costume makeup versions, until now!! This is a wonderful tutorial. I now use the things I learned on here every single day and I always look fresh and glowing. Wonderful job to the author or authors! (:

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